10 Bulu Domba Wool

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TEKNOLOGI SERAT, KARET, GUM DAN RESINTEKNOLOGI SERAT, KARET, GUM DAN RESIN(TIN 423)(TIN 423)

OlehOleh::

Dr. Ono Suparno, S.TP, MTDr. Ono Suparno, S.TP, MT

DepartemenDepartemen TeknologiTeknologi IndustriIndustri PertanianPertanianFakultasFakultas TeknologiTeknologi PertanianPertanian

InstitutInstitut PertanianPertanian BogorBogor

20102010

TIN 423 -Bulu Domba/Wool - Ono Suparno

Hair fibres: all animal

Wool: the fibrous (hair)covering the sheep

Wool: nearly 90% of theworld production of

animal fibres: wool andsilk)



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A versatile fiber: fiber resistant elasticdurable, and serves as a source ofinsulation

Useful as textiles, others are important aspadding, stuffing materials and in


Similar to wool in chemical structure:protein (keratin)

Differ in physical characteristics: length,fineness, shape, internal structure andcolour



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Wool roducin countries:

Australia, New Zealand, Russia,Argentina, China, South Africa, Uruguay,UK, USA, Turkey, India, Brazil and Bulgaria


Has the com lex chemical com ositiontypical of a protein

18 different amino acid(H2NCH(R).COOH) monomeric spec ies ofdiverse character for having different R



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MajorMajor --amino acidsamino acids Composition %Composition %

AlanineAlanine 44

LeucineLeucine 1111--1212

Glutamic acidGlutamic acid 1414--1616

ArginineArginine 1010--1111

--CystineCystine 1111--1212

TyrosineTyrosine 55--66

ValineValine 44--55

OthersOthers restrestTIN 423 -Bulu Domba/Wool - Ono Suparno

Wool absorbs moisture.

It does not burn over a flame butsmoulders instead.

It is lightweight and versatile.

It does not wrinkle easily.

.

The warmth of wool is more due to theevenly distributed air pocket in wooltextile material



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Tensile stren th: 1000-2000 k cm2

Elongation at break: 25-40% (standardcondition), 30-40% (wet) resilient fibre

Elastic recovery: 99% at 2% elongation;60% at 20% elongation

Specific gravity: 1.32


Wool is spun into two types of yarn: Woolen Worsted

Woolen yarns: made from short staple fibresare held loosely and given only a limitedtwist during spinning woven into thick,full-bodied materials such as tweeds,

, Worsted yarns: spun from longer staple

fibres and are woven to make fine dressmaterials and suiting; much finer, firmer andsmoother.



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Producin Wool

Sheep produce wool - the perfect fibrefor varieties of fabric

Shear a sheep and spin its wool into yarn


By using fast electric handclippers

Uses long, smooth strokes closeto the skin in to preserve thelength of the fiber and hencethe value of the fleece

Fine and medium-fine wools oflonger staple lengths (> 3 in)

-and dress fabrics.

Coarser and shorter fibers, < 3 inlong to make bulky sweaterand carpet yarns



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Washing (scouring) to remove grease (lanolin),

Washing and ScouringWashing and Scouring

vegetable matter and other impurities. A set ofrakes moves the fleeces through a series ofscouring tubs of soap and water. Impurities canweigh from 30 to 70% of raw fleece.

The first wash waters are warm-up to 140 oF - andthe rinses are cold. Then squeeze rollers and a hot-air dr in chamber brin the moisture content to

the right level for the next step in processing. The grease in wool is lanolin. It is separated from

the wash water, purified used in soaps,cosmetics, and other products.


After washin and thorou h rinsin thewool is dried. On a commercial scalelarge mechanical dryers are used. Thewool is set on screen tables with hot aircirculation. On a individual scale thewool can be laced on a sheet and setin the sun.



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Clean wools from several different batches-

mechanically-at this stage. Blending unifiesthe slightly-different basic colors of rawwool, and also helps to standardize staplelength and diameter for uniform quality.

Wool dyed immediately after it is scoured

- .into yarn first and then its yarn-dyed.Weave it into a piece of fabric and then it ispiece-dyed.


Passes the clean and dry wool through a system ofwire rollers to straighten the fibers and remove anyremaining vegetable matter. The rollers vary indiameter and turn at different speeds in order toform a thin web of aligned fibers. Smooth steel

fingers then divide the web and roll the strandsover onto one another to create narrowcontinuous ropes of fibers called "slivers".



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Weavin roduces cloth b interlacintwo sets of yarn at right angles. Yarnsrunning lengthwise in the loom are the"warp", while yarns running crosswiseform the filling or "weft".

variety.


Knitted fabrics are roduced binterlocking rows of yarns and loops. Asnew loops are formed, they are drawnthrough those previously shaped. Thisinter-looping and the continuedformation of new loo s roduces knitfabric.



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Fullin : Once the fabric assesinspec tion, it undergoes a controlledshrinkage process call fulling or milling.

Moisture, heat and friction are appliedcausing the fabric to shrink a controlled

. This tightens the weave and improves

the hand (texture) of the fabric.


Finishin : Woolens are often brushed toraise the ends of the wool fibers abovethe surface of the c loth in a soft, fluffy

nap. Naps range from the lightly brushedsurfaces of a flannel to the deep-pileeffect of fleecy coatings. Deep naps are

cylinders covered with fine metal wiresand small hooks. These hooks pull fiberends to the surface and create the nap.



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To make sweaters dresses coats suitsjackets, pants and the lining of boots.

Can be made into blankets and carpets.


10 Bulu Domba Wool

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